Travel: Olive oil in Paciano, Italy

Night had fallen, and the rain, which began as drizzle soon into our 90-mile journey north from Rome, was teeming by the time we reached Paciano. We exited our van and hurried through a few yards of rural darkness into the sanctuary of Il Campodonico, a farmhouse converted into a pair of charming vacation apartments -- the lower of which contained an expansive dining table on which several plates awaited our arrival.